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Kliman Online, Todd Kliman's Chog - Tuesdays 11-12 AM on Washingtonian.com


Meaghan

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I guarantee you it is Sous Vide Prime Rib and Sous Vide sides in a partnership between Cuisine Soulutions and a local restaurateur who is NOT Michel Richard.

Not joking.

It is safe to say that we can all begin to write Don's epitaph now.

I have no right to delete this post.

I know very well about the restaurant, but promised I would say nothing. So I'm saying nothing.

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No.

Well then it can be only 2 others that i know are looking to do something which I cannot devuldge on this website because I don't want to blow there spot..

don I will let you know if I'm right when it comes out.. I like the idea but don't know if it could work long term..

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Well then it can be only 2 others that i know are looking to do something which I cannot devuldge on this website because I don't want to blow there spot..

don I will let you know if I'm right when it comes out.. I like the idea but don't know if it could work long term..

Well I was off....

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Well the mystery restaurant pretty much has to be...

(drum roll please)

this

Medium Rare, says its creator, Mark Bucher, is expected to open as early as next month at 3500 Connecticut Ave. NW (formerly Yanni's Greek Taverna). There will be a single feature -- steak frites -- on the menu, although a meatless entrée will be available for vegetarians... dinner is expected to cost around $20 -- and star chef Michel Richard is consulting on the project.
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Silver Spring, MD:

Re: The General Store and kids--we live very close by and had high hopes for the place.

We went for dinner one night with our toddler who eats everything. We were horrified to see that they had removed the straps from their high chairs, because, the server explained, the straps get very dirty. We spent the entire meal trying to keep our kid from falling/climbing out of the high chair.

That's not my idea of kid-friendly regardless of the food, which for the record was not great. Fish tacos were dry and the fried chicken was only okay.

Todd Kliman:

I hear you.

But "horrified"? Come on, that's really overdoing it, don't you think? I know the place is an easy target for a lot of people, but I'd save a word like "horrified" for a place that insisted on noisy toddlers being strung upside down from the ceiling

If they weren't horrified by the lack of straps, they would've been horrified by the dirtiness of the straps. Seriously, General Store should do an re-enactment of these "horrified" diners with their toddler. Maybe they can dress a watermelon up as a toddler and have it fall off the highchair. :)

Next week on "Word of Mouth," I'll be writing about a stellar new place for Cantonese. Stay tuned.

Anyone have an idea which joint Todd's talking about?

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Ballston, VA:

Was all set to ahve lunch at BBQ Bandidos truck since they are supposed to be in Ballston. Went out looking for them at about1135 and they were no where to be found. Hope they rot in hell!

Answer:

That's the spirit.

Jesus, I'd hate to be in front of you on the Beltway ...

For some reason I thought Todd's response is hilarious.

Arlington, VA:

Rumor has it that Mellow Mushroom Pizza is coming to town. Can you confirm this wonderful news?

Answer:

I can. Expect a July opening, in Adams Morgan.

I know of both the Charlottesville and Raleigh restaurants, but have never been to either. Curious to hear what fuels the excitement.

This brings back memories of college. There's a Mellow Mushroom pizza joint near my school (Emory). The rumor was they put pot on the pizza. A frat brother ended up delivering for them. The rumor was all wrong. They're all potheads in the restaurant but no pot was ever put on the pizza (that would've been a waste of pot). The result is many overcooked pizzas and calzones as the potheads had a hard time remembering when the food was placed in the oven. When the food is properly cooked though, it was pretty good, especially after one has been inhaling (so I've been told :) ).

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I used to eat all the time at Mellow Mushroom in Charlottesville - good beer selection for the town for the time (particularly when it was raining and you got a discount) and the food wasn't too bad, though it had sprouts on everything.

Seriously. WTF sprouts. I hate sprouts used more indiscriminately than patchouli by the staff.

I'd go to one here, if it was in walking distance, but in AdMo? Well, it's good for there, I guess. Maybe.

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From Kliman's chat

The menu at Fiamma featured a round, single-serving lasagna, and so does the menu at Fiola. But Trabocchi has rejiggered it, rustickating the preparation to include salumi, mushrooms, lamb and truffles. The flavors unfold as you eat; no two bites are the same. The lingering impression is of foie gras, with a mouth-coating richness that turns a seemingly straightforward dish into something complex and challenging. It would be hard to imagine ten bites of a dish that are more intense than this.

Did anyone else taste truffles or foie gras in the lasagna? I didn't detect a hint of either. So far I haven't read anyone else's review that mentioned the lasagna had either of those ingredients.

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There's a new word for this. It's called "moasting." A really neat neologism of "moaning" and "boasting." You see it a lot on Facebook: "Oh, dear Lord -- our plane to Paris has now been delayed a second time!!"

Like rushing to a new restaurant and bitch about service issues?

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Good morning Todd,

There's been a lot of noise this past week about Rogue 24 restaurant, some good, some bad. My wife and I went this past week with great excitement only to regret spending almost $500 and abiding to a contract with ridiculous terms and restrictions that are more suited for an arrogant punk rock star who thinks has already reached platinum status 2 weeks after the opening of his new venture.

Throughout our "Journey" we were clearly unhappy, but did not vocalize any comments or complaints until a suited gentleman approached us and explained that the vision of the Chef is "Sacred" and basically we did not understand it. In few words the message delivered to us was: "How dare you?"

The Chef after been briefed looked our way shaking his head materializing a clear lip readable, but silent F... word! After witnessing the very disappointing experience with the food, the service, and the overall thick feelings of supremacy and arrogance that floats inside those 4 walls I am suddenly taken by deja vu` and remember your preview on his Pop up in New York at LTO a few weeks back I remember, at the time Chef Cooper was so upset about your take that he publicly replied on his Facebook page stating you were wrong, unfair and he suggested you a more suitable way to criticize his concept and food. I am sure plans for a formal review are in the works, but I wonder how fairly will you be approaching someone who has ridiculous you and hit you with a jab in the chin trying to compromise and to cloud your credibility as a food critic without any respect. The same disrespect he showed my wife and I.

What happens if your future review will confirm your initial judgment? Will you have to get a restraining order from this guy? Are you afraid he will knock on your door with a baseball bat? Chase you down the garage on the way to your car? It's a given at this point we permanently lost any interest whatsoever about the restaurant, the Chef and his Bull "Sacred" vision of supremacy.

At the time we really wished for a special evening, one of those you can remember to be memorable. All I can say is be careful what you wish for!!

Thank you

Ronnie Andrew JR II

What is there to be so unhappy about? Buyer's remorse? Even if one didn't like the food, is there any reason to write something that seems to stretch the truth? The part that I think is fiction is the part where someone told them the chef's vision is sacred. Does anyone think Ronnie Andrew JR II's gripes are legit?

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What is there to be so unhappy about? Buyer's remorse? Even if one didn't like the food, is there any reason to write something that seems to stretch the truth? The part that I think is fiction is the part where someone told them the chef's vision is sacred. Does anyone think Ronnie Andrew JR II's gripes are legit?

It would be nice if he actually stated some facts about what they did not like. Was is the food, service, pacing, foam? If that it his real name, then kudos for signing it.

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Guess this person loves to retell this story:

From Washingtonian:

Washington, Dc:

Back about 3 weeks ago I hosted dinner for 8 at one of Dc's top restaurant's. I was required to guarantee the reservation which I did with my Amex Black. I called as required to confirm etc. We showed up and the bill was $5K even with tip. There were no problems at dinner,. Food, wine etc were all great. Now I was told if we cancelled we would be charged a fee for lost revenue etc. Well we didnt cancel but 72hrs later that fee along with the $5k both posted to my card. I called Amex to dispute both charges because I was hot and had not gotten any satisfaction from the restaurant when I called asking for an explanation. Amex removed both charges from bill. Restaurant is threatening legal action against me and Amex. I told the chef/owner to bring it. Amex is backing me.

From Wapo:

Contracts and Reservations

I was hosting a dinner for eight three weeks ago. I called and made reservations at one of Dc' top restaurants. they wanted me to quarantee the reservation with a credit card. I gave them my Black Amex. So fast forward dinner goes off great. Bill with tip i rounded off to a nice $5K even. Every one is happy. Billion dollar business deal closed. I check my Amex statement and notice two charges from this restaurant. One for the $5k and another I alter find out is their cancellation fee. I call ask to speak to manager anfd figure simple mistake and I should be able to get this corrected in a few minutes. But no. Manager gives me a bunch of grief and insists we enver showed up. I say how could I have not shown up and dropped $5K in your establishment. More discussion. No resolution. I call Amex and because of how I was treated I dispute both charges. Amex settles the dispute in my favor and refuses to pay either charge. I do enough business with Amex that they couldnt afford to lose me. I may call the restaurant and have them resumbit the $5K tab some day if they apologize for their rudeness and mistake. So far they havent. Their loss.

Seems the story gets more embellished with each telling. I like how the poster guaranteed his/her reservation with a Centurion card. I don't think I would've known how swanky he/she is without that little detail. $5k for 8, that's a little over $600 per person - very impressive. Ooh, billion dollar dealed closed. Don't forget to deduct that meal for income tax purposes and thank Uncle Sam (i.e., your fellow taxpapers) for paying 40% of your dinner. But you didn't pay for dinner, probably still taking a deduction anyway? So the taxpayers will pay you to eat out - fabulous! And AMEX certainly can't afford to lose any of its Centurion card holders as a client.

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Guess this person loves to retell this story:

From Washingtonian:

From Wapo:

Seems the story gets more embellished with each telling. I like how the poster guaranteed his/her reservation with a Centurion card. I don't think I would've known how swanky he/she is without that little detail. $5k for 8, that's a little over $600 per person - very impressive. Ooh, billion dollar dealed closed. Don't forget to deduct that meal for income tax purposes and thank Uncle Sam (i.e., your fellow taxpapers) for paying 40% of your dinner. But you didn't pay for dinner, probably still taking a deduction anyway? So the taxpayers will pay you to eat out - fabulous! And AMEX certainly can't afford to lose any of its Centurion card holders as a client.

The spelling aspect of his/her story alone is an embarassment. Part 2 for those keeping score.

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From Today's chat:

Arlington, VA:

Todd,

I would argue that there are two sets of burger variables that divide people: fancy sandwich/sloppy sandwich and thick patty/thin patt(ies).

I imagine the spectrum as a four quadrant graph with fancy/sloppy on the vertical axis and thin/thick on the horizontal axis.

Although I haven't had them all yet (most notably Shake Shack), my favorites in each quadrant (clockwise, from the bottom right) are Five Guys (thin/sloppy); Good Stuff (thin/fancy); BGR (thick/sloppy); and Central (thick/fancy).

Ray's can fall within either of the latter two categories, depending on how you order it. Either I'm a geek or like burgers way too much. Probably both.

Answer:

Can I just say? I LOVE the burger graph.

You're brilliant.

I'd love to make reference to this in the future and, of course, credit you whenever I do. If you're game, drop me a note ...

I don't know if any of you are behind this, but I loved it too, and thought it was a great way to categorize burgers!

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SILVER SPRING, MD:

(1) What do you think of Elevation Burger, which is coming next month to the Westfield Shopping Mall in Wheaton?

Answer:

In its genre, I think Elevation Burger is pretty good.

Thanks, by the way, to chatter Rich Boone for his very insightful and very pithy Burger Chart.

Your secret is not so safe with Todd

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Terribly funny. I saw this as I was finishing work tonight at 9:00. I think my job is safe.

Kliman's chats are usually really boring! I find the TS conversations much more interesting, mostly because he gets more interesting questions. Your matrix was a breath of fresh air, and he clearly appreciated it.

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I find Kliman's chats to be more interesting...at least his answers to the various questions. I feel that Sietsema gets bogged down by too many it's my anniversary/birthday/blah blah blah where should I go to eat...or his chats get bogged down with inane topics like babies/little children in restaurants or Are you still working on that rants. I guess I find Kliman's writing more interesting.

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I've been extraordinarily busy, so I've neglected to post that neither Todd nor ktmoomau "outed" me. (That was a joke anyway.) I exchanged emails with Todd and told him he could use my name.

Regardless, I'm pleased you like my "burger chart." I never thought it was that interesting an idea. I just saw Todd's post about fancy burgers vs. sloppy burger and thought: the big dichotmy for me is thick burgers vs. thin burgers. Realizing that there were, in fact, four variables, my (arguably not cool) mind graphed them. I could add a Z axis that graphed quality, but Todd writes for a magazine, so 3D doesn't work too well!

Anyway, thank you all for the kind words. I love both TK's and TS's chats. Both have great taste, and get around way more than I do. It's awesome that I have both to help me gauge what it worth my time (and money). If you read them both enough, you get the difference between what TS and TK value in a place. Knowing the difference helps me decide which of their recommendations I will like.

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Fairfax, VA:

I went to Restaurant Eve for my birthday and had an odd experience which put a bad note on an otherwise excellent evening. While the food was great I felt that I was misled which added a sour note to the evening.

At Eve the Testing menu has you pick one of four choices from each of 5 courses - with the option of skipping one course altogether and having two items from another course. All well and good. It even shows an admirable level of flexibility.

The problem is the Chef Degustation Menu. We ordered it as an "adventurous" alternative as the chef would prepare "an exclusive multi course tasting menu for you". We almost ordered it for 5 courses but at the last minute we decided to go for 7. I am really glad we ungraded to 7 courses. We expected and having reread the language I believe we were fully justified in expecting a unique set of 7 courses. If we had received one or two off the menu it would have been fine - but all 7 were items off the menu.

I didn’t realize this at the time – I noticed it when we got home – because they gave us a copy of the menu and found all the dishes. If I had ordered only 5 courses I would have felt really stupid. Why should I have the chef pick the 5 choices out of the same pool of dishes that I could pick from. What is "adventurous" about that?

The chef doesn't come out and talk to you about likes and dislikes - it is a general question of any allergies or things you don't like. I could pick at least as well as him. In fact we got the dessert that I would have picked last of the 4 choices and I definitely would have skipped the cheese course altogether.

I wrote to the manager making it clear that I was not asking for free food or drinks but didn’t even get a response – it’s been 4 weeks. My wife and I would really like your take on the situation and would like to know if you think we are being unreasonable in feeling misled.

Todd Kliman:

I wouldn't use the word "misled," but I do think that it's only reasonable to expect that some of those 7 courses, at least, would be made up of dishes not available on any other menus.

I'm surprised you haven't heard back from Eve about this.

Normally I think the chatters are whiners but this complaint somewhat resonates with me. To be specific, I don't think the chef has any obligation to come out and kiss your ass but what is so special about the degustation menu when it's just picked from the existing menu? The website sample menu contain this description:

Menu Surprise! For the excitement and delight of our guests in a more ‘adventurous’ mood, allow Chef Armstrong to prepare an exclusive multi course tasting menu for you.

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I adored today's chat. There was some really good writing and it was very fun to read and follow along. I think it was a really cool change of pace. If you weren't following along, the reviews written in styles of famous authors was quite good and worth a look through.

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I agree. Remember when Tom brought on chefs to shill their restaurants? That was a bust. But Todd is an author and a former lit teacher, so I'm not too surprised that he has found this format. It really challenges the questioners to do something other than ask where to take their in-laws from Nebraska for something not too adventurous.

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I too adore the new format!

Somebody today, not me, asked TK why the dining is so poor in McLean. It's a question that he and TS get fairly frequently, but today TK had a rather compelling answer. He noted the paucity of fine dining spots in Potomac, McLean, and to a lesser degree, the Palisades. He could have added Great Falls to the list. He offered three reasons: none is densely populated, none is served by the Metro, and none has cultural institutions nearby unlike, for example, Penn Quarter. I live in McLean, and the usual stock answer is that everybody here dines in with food prepared by their personal chef. I wish!

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^ I wonder if it's because Mclean is more family-oriented and there is less of an interest in fine dining? I used to know a number of families with small children in Mclean and they usually traveled to Arlington or Falls Church to eat because there were more family-friendly or budget-friendly places and options.

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Naeem:

Chefs and fighting Obesity: I saw an article/blurb last week on Washingtonian.com about José Andrés and NFL star Charles Woodson were sitting on panel together. Chef Andrés stated that he wished to make stadium food healthier, which I think is a noble cause and agree that as Americans we should be eating better.

At the same time, most of these chefs who want to fight obesity should take a look in the mirror themselves and help themselves before wanting to help others. Now, if José were to get himself in shape (and the chef has grown quite large over the years) and then tell people about the virtues of healthy eating and living right, I might be able to take him more seriously. Todd, what is your opinion on the issue? Just wanted to give my two cents this morning. Thanks!

LOL!

Jessica Voelker:

In defense of Andrés, I think he was saying there is a mixed message at the stadium. We go there to celebrate great health and athletic feats, and we advertise all-you-can-eat hot dogs to kids. I mean, it's kind of an interesting point.

I go to the stadium to eat. I usually leave football games prior to the beginning of the 4th quarter, and don't last more than 5 innings at a baseball game. I have no idea why anyone thinks I'm at the stadium to celebrate great health. Those people cooking and boozing all day in the parking lot - they're not there to celebrate great health. They're there to eat and get tanked. So Jose, lay your fat fingers off my stadium food.

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I don't see where this point of press hounding is going for Andres. Is he trying to hint that he wants to open up branded kiosks selling healthy food at stadiums? Awesome, and a great example of putting money behind your beliefs. If not, then how many more healthy options would he like to see? DC stadiums have a smattering of healthy options. Just like at his restaurants. Actually I'd wager that Nationals Park is above the curve in that regard. I go to a few games a year and it's with friends and to have a good time - just like when I go to a restaurant. I can cook the healthy stuff at home.

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From Washingtonian Kliman chat.

McLean:

Why are restaurants serving pasta with runny eggs? What does the egg add? Is this just another stupid fad?

Todd Kliman:

The runny egg …

It’s been a hot little item for years, now, actually.

Particularly as farming naming has gotten bigger and bigger, and chefs seem very keen on letting you know that that’s not just any old egg you’re eating — it came from a very specific place. (It’d be nice to know what time it came from that place, too, but alas, the farmer mania does not extend that far.)

The egg is meant to add a little richness and provide a bit of sauce as well, as it does in the classic bistro dish frisee aux lardons.

In some cases, it’s there to thicken an existing sauce.

I like it in dishes if it’s done well. But I hear you. Many times it feels simply gratuitous.

It almost always looks appealing, at least it does to me, but that’s not to say that it always does its job. I’ve had many dishes in the past couple of years where the egg didn’t knit the flavors together the way it was intended and just seemed like, well — like an egg on top of an otherwise complete dish.

That was my question, but I did not write the following response:

I had the smoked duck cavatelli as a main, and think it's a perfect example of the uncooked egg overkill phenomenon - the egg added a nice richness to the dish, but overwhelmed the duck to the point that it could have been miscellaneous dark meat pasta in with egg and lots of salt. Not bad, but not inspiring or need-to-go-back, either.

In my case, the egg white was barely set and I just wasn't a fan of a poached egg in my pasta.

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I love the food there but I have found their service lacking several times, both the waitstaff but more particularly the hostesses. While at dinner there over the winter, their valet informed me that he was unable to get my car back for me (due to Obama being in the vicinity and the road to the garage being blocked off) and that he had no idea how long it would take to get it back. I understand that the situation was out of their control, but the hostess couldn't care less that I was stranded there indefinitely. An offer of a free drink at the bar while I waited for the situation to resolve would have done a lot to ease my frustration.

Todd Kliman:

Yes, at the very least.

This was about Fiola. He understands the situation is out of their control but he thinks the restaurant should buy him a drink and Todd agrees. Serious?!

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I always get super annoyed when my very important schedule, including timing of getting home after dinner, is interrupted by the President of the United States of America, and his personal safety. I mean who does he think he is anyway? And why does he think he gets special treatment?

Why didn't this guy go back to the bar and order himself a drink if he wanted one and was delayed momentarily. Sounds like that would have been a winning result.

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