zoramargolis

You learn something new every day.

Yeah, I'm intimately acquainted with bullshit in many of its manifestations...

The Dupont Market has grown to be too popular to remain as is, and needs to expand onto another block.

Expanding onto the other side of Q Street would be problematic because of through traffic on Q. Too bad they can't take over that little triangular park. That'd be a great place to have prepared food for sale. They've already started expanding alongside the bank on Mass Ave., where Bonaparte Bakery is. There certainly could be a few more vendors there.

Interesting.

Most things I have heard suggest the water used for washing as the likely agent.

The strain of e-coli they have identified is found in the intestines of cattle. The washing water could, I suppose, have come from a shallow well which became contaminated by nearby cattle, although it seems odd that their processing facility would be located close enough to a cattle herd that well water would have become contaminated, presuming that their washing water came from a well that was 1) shallow enough to be contaminated by manure on the surface; 2) unfiltered. Nothing else has been identified as contaminated. Is spinach the only thing they wash there?

Whereas, in order to kill bacteria, fresh manure must be fairly carefully composted so that it reaches a high enough temperature to render it harmless and safe to use as fertilizer. That seems like a more likely point in the chain of events involving potential contact with cattle manure that quality control could have broken down. It seems possible that a contaminated batch of fertilizer was used for a crop of spinach and not any other of their produce. According to the article, the spinach they have just tested from that company is not showing up contaminated, so it was a previously harvested crop that was the problem.

http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/conte...865.html?sub=AR

Natural Selection Foods, the huge industrial organics operation written about at length in Michael Pollan's book, _The Omnivore's Dilemma_ is being blamed for the current outbreak of e-coli illness in bagged spinach. So much for the automatic assumption that organically-grown food is better for you...

My guess is that it was probably caused by inadequately composted manure being used as fertilizer. I'll be interested to hear what Michael Pollan has to say about this. He views the whole industrial organic paradigm with a great deal of suspicion and concern in his book, so he has earned the right to say: "I told you so!"

I want a drink at a bar. Not a restaurant. Not a lounge. A bar.

Heather--

The chorus of a song lyric I wrote a few years back seems to fit your mood--

MAMA WANTS TO ROCK and roll

like a child

Dance with the wind

And go kinda wild

Sing to the moon

And burn out the lights

MAMA WANTS TO ROCK

Her baby tonight

© Z. Margolis

Do you remember the price? I love them but they are so expensive.

I think it was $2.99-- it was significantly less than anywhere else I have seen them. As I said, though, these were not in good condition--they were in plastic-wrapped containers and the packaging was such that there was a very humid environment inside, and the 'shrooms were starting to get that translucent look which is what happens before they turn into goo. Theoretically, if one could get these when they have just arrived at the store, this would be a great bargain.

On that subject. My husband told me that when he was on a recent birdwatching trip to New England, he stopped in a State Park in Connecticut, and found 'shrooms popping up amid the pine trees there. When he described what he had seen, there was little question that they had been maitakes. He said they were all over the place there. But he was on his way there, not back, and so didn't pick any.

Millionth? Name 10.

His review of BlackSalt that trashed the talented pastry chef, Susan Wallace. That's one.

I have to say (full disclosure) I am biased... My wife and I own and operate the Public House in Flint Hill. But I can highly recommend our neighbors (and pals) Four and Twenty Blackbirds. People call us competitors, but we are great neighbors. It's cool to have great neighbors... We should probably start another post as this really doesn't have anything to do with the Inn. Who, I have to say, are great neighbors as well. We get quite a bit of business from them with their overnight guests that are staying multiple nights.

Your part of Rappahannock County is so beautiful! A minimum of two visits per summer were part of our routine when my daughter went to camp nearby--she has unfortunately "graduated" now, and it's harder to find the time to make the trip. A question-- what is your neighbor Heidi, the one-time goat-cheese maker up to these days? We visited her farm and bought cheese from her many times, and were disappointed when she decided not to sell directly to the public anymore.

They carry some odd stuff that goes in and out of stock very quickly. Yesterday I saw freeze dried mangosteens (?) The other day they had boxes of microgreens, which was cool. They were gone the next day, though, and don't seem to be returning.

I was there yesterday, and they were out of stock on the Marques de Casa Concha Merlot. I was curious about the mangosteens, so I bit--don't bother. Weird texture-- sort of like freeze dried marshmallows. They had maitake mushrooms (also called hen of the woods), which I haven't seen before at a Trader Joe's. Unfortunately, they didn't look to be in great condition, so I bought shiitakes and criminis instead.

Isn't the Garofalo brand actual Mozzarella di bufala? The stuff that Blud Ridge sells is good, but nothing special. I do however enjoy their ricotta and yogurt.

Yes, Mozzarella di bufala it is. Goodness knows how much longer Costco will be carrying it, but I say if you have a Costco card--go get some. I saw a single ball selling for $5.49 at Trader Joe's today, and that's got to be cheaper than anywhere else--except Costco. Granted the ball at TJ's looked a bit larger than the individual balls in the Garofalo tub, but still-- $9.99 gets you a lot more deliciousness for your money.

If I recall correctly, Paul Stephan started out with the goal of making mozzarella di bufalo--and imported a herd of Italian water buffalos to his farm in Loudon County. He found the animals too difficult to manage, and then tried a buffalo-cow hybrid animal. Finally, he gave up the cattle altogether, and now focuses just on cheesemaking, buying his milk from others.

My sense is that there are two different goals being discussed here: fruit-flavored liquor vs. liquor infused fruit.

The latter, rumtopf-type preparation involves layering primarily stone fruits--cherries, apricots, plums work best-- in jars of bourbon, brandy or rum and allowing the fruit to steep for weeks or months. Then you ladle the fruit over cake or pudding or ice cream. The rumtopf is usually kept going, by adding more fruits to the same jar and more booze to replenish what has been absorbed or evaporated (or nipped by the cook).

The former involves using various fruits, herbs or citrus peels to make flavored vodka, bourbon or liqueurs. There the fruit is turned into a syrup and mixed with liquor, or is strained out and discarded, after the flavor has been extracted.

Mirabelle, kirsch, framboise, poire and other similar clear (unsweet) fruit liquors are eaus des vies--where ripe fruit is mashed and fermented and then distilled--not something you can do at home, unless you happen to have a pot still handy.

I am fond of stuffing the peels from two or three Meyer lemons into a bottle of potato vodka, and letting it sit for about a month. I sleep better, knowing that two such bottles are currently in residence in my freezer. IMO, there's nothing better with smoked fish or caviar, than ice-cold, homemade Meyer lemon vodka--not even champagne.

Savory fresh corn fritters

Tomatoes with basil

Bufalo mozzarella--the Garafalo brand sold at Costco. This is FABULOUS stuff: silky texture, fresh, sweet milky flavor. Four balls for $9.99. Sorry, Paul S.-- Blue Ridge Dairy's mozz. is totally outclassed by this product.

Broiled, spiced Italian plums with vanilla ice cream

The pithivier looks beautiful. Did you make the puff pastry? If not, where did you get it?

Sunday:

Garlic-rosemary pork loin

Herb roasted potatoes

Zoramargolis' roasted fennel slaw (from the Fennel thread, which went over very well. Thanks!)

Hey, you're welcome! Glad you liked it. I think it is delicious, but I can't make it very often-- my family doesn't like cooked fennel But I make it sometimes for guests and then my husband and daughter can't bitch about it. Like many of my culinary improvisations, it was inspired by something I ate somewhere and then did my own version of. Few of them get written down: in the event a dish receive unanimous kudos, it goes into the semi-regular repertoire. If the response is tepid, but I love it, I make it occasionally. Or it gets forgotten about. Thanks to DR, some of my culinary concepts have gotten appreciation beyond my family and dinner guests, and have even been written down for "posterity."

New query: canned chipotles en adobo, opened, remainders placed in glass jar in fridge; been there at least two months. Still good or death in a jar?

Moldy? Pitch. Rancid or foul smell? Pitch. Looks, smells the same as when first stored? OK to use.

Charcoal grill-roasted Eco-Friendly Italian sausages

(Veggie-teen had grilled, fresh-herb marinated tofu instead of sausage)

with grill-roasted red peppers, eggplant, onions, garlic, fresh basil

bufalo mozzarella, reggiano and pecorino

piled on grilled striata baguette from Marvelous Market

2003 Di Majo Norante Sangiovese

The last of the peach brioche bread pudding with raspberry-blackberry coulis

Damn, those sausage sandwiches ROCKED!

Zora,

Fernet Branca is used to aid digestion (it is claimed) but falls into the group of beverages known as Amaro. For my taste, Fernet is the most vile and medicinal one. It seems every town and city in Italy has its own secret recipe for amaro - some of them are quite tasty. More interesting ones I find to be: Montenegro, Ramazzotti, Amaro Nonino. These are also supposed to be magic hangover cures.

Mark,

My B-I-L will be here from NYC for Thanksgiving. I'm sure he would be surprised and happy to be offered one of these amari that you find interesting. any recommendations for where I might find one of them?

Dino's version did not have OJ, and it did not need it. As for Cynar, it is different, it is based on Artichoke and is a bitter rather herbal aperitif. It sort of reminds me of a mix between Campari and Green Chartreuse.

I remembered that it had some relationship with artichoke. Can you taste the artichoke?

Or a slightly more palatable version of Fernet Branca.

My British brother-in-law is a connoisseur of Fernet-Branca and other digestifs. I have had occasion to taste some of them. Fernet Branca is the only one whose name I recall. To me, it's rather like something you would smear on your chest to loosen up bronchial congestion. I can't see the appeal of leaving a restaurant after a lovely meal, and having such a medicinal taste lingering on your palate. Perhaps if the food had been vile...

Last night I took my parents to Dino, I started with a Blood and Sand, and my wife had a Cyn Cin. The Blood and Sand was nice, but the Cyn Cin stole the show. My wife would only let me have one little sip, but what a fine sip it was.

With dinner we enjoyed a bottle of 1998 Elvio Cogno Barolo "Raverva". The wine started out a little rough around the edges, but with a little air it showed nicely. It was especially good with the Lasagna.

I had not heard of a Cyn Cin before and it took a bit of a search, but I tracked down the ingredients: gin, Cinzano sweet vermouth, Cynar, Orange bitters and a splash of OJ. I've heard of Cynar, but never tasted it. Is it similar to anything reasonably familiar?

I'm sorry to be the bearer of disappointing news, but "Gastronaut" is the title of a book by Britisher Stefan Gates, subtitled "Adventures in food for the romantic, the foolhardy and the brave." Published in 2005 by Harcourt, Inc.

Neologisms can be thought of by more than one person--I used to enter Bob Levey's monthly neologism contest in the Washington Post. On more than one occasion, I came up with the winning answer--but I wasn't the first one to send it in. Good one, though.

Make verduras en escabeche (Mexican pickled vegetables) with the jalapeños, onions, carrots, celery, garlic. You can probably find a recipe online. It's very simple to make and is a delicious snack.

Pork chop with pan reduction sauce

Succotash of wood-grilled corn and red poblano chile with favas.

Peach brioche bread pudding with raspberry-blackberry coulis

2002 Row Eleven Santa Maria Pinot Noir

It was my thought to use some of the berries to make a jam, but have a little stage fright. When you were making jam with your cherries, did you follow the ratio of one pound of fruit to one pound of sugar? And, how did you determine how much pectin to add?

In addition to the blackberries, I have twenty-seven pounds of cut peaches in my freezer. And, about four pounds of cut strawberries.

Does the same ratio of fruit to sugar apply to peaches and strawberries as well?

Thank you.

I follow the instructions in the pectin package as far as ratio of fruit to sugar is concerned--it's usually about 5 cups of fruit to 7 cups of sugar and one package of pectin per batch, depending on how sweet or tart the fruit is. Don't try to make double batches to save time. It doesn't work.

Making preserves is not difficult, if you follow directions closely. Boil jars and lids for ten minutes or more to sterilize, along with a canning funnel, a ladle and a good pair of tongs to get your jars out of the sterilizing pot. Remove the sterile lids and jars and turn them upside down on a towel next to your stove. Meanwhile, start cooking your prepared fruit with the pectin until it boils and add all of the pre-measured sugar and when it has come to a rolling boil, stir vigorously for one full minute. Turn off the heat, skim off the foam, and ladle the hot liquid into one jar at a time, using the funnel. Immediately put the lid and ring on the jar, tighten it and turn the jar upside down, then do the next jar. When you have finished with all of the jam, turn the jars right side up and let them stand until they are cool. You will hear a pinging sound, which is the lid cntracting as the vacuum seal takes place. I do not process jam further in a water bath. As long as the jars were sterilized and the hot liquid was put into the jars quickly, and the lid has sealed they will not spoil, even if kept at room temperature for years.

I made peach preserves with lavender-infused brandy, which was tasty, but didn't have enough lavender flavor. It was a good combination, however.

I have had a commercially made raspberry-chipotle sauce, which was great. So I think fruit and chiles are an interesting combination. I'd pack it in small jars, though. A little goes a long way.

Every bag of mussels is required to carry a tag identifying its source, harvest date and shipping date. The best way to ensure good mussels is to ask to see the tag so that you can determine how long it has been since the mussels were harvested and shipped. If it has been a few weeks, they may be still alive, but obviously they aren't feeding after harvest, and have been living off of their own stored nutrients, so they will be less plump and tasty, and more of them may no longer be alive. All of the commercially available mussels are rope cultured and shouldn't be gritty. The best ones IMO come from Prince Edward Island. Though I no longer work there, I recommend BlackSalt as a good place both to buy mussels in the fish market, and order them in the restaurant. They sell a ton of them, so are frequently getting fresh deliveries. I'd be surprised if any place sells fresher, higher quality mussels. The restaurant has several different preparations to choose from ( I always get the Addie's mussels) and they are reasonable--it's possible to sit at the bar, have a serving of mussels and a glass of wine and get change back from a $20 bill.

Ice cold slices of a BigBoy Tomato

Do you refrigerate your tomatoes? That is certainly contrary to the prevailing advice.