Eric Ziebold

On Sunday May 30th, Sou'Wester will be having a "Crab Boil" on the Lawn at the Mandarin Oriental. I would encourage anyone that might have been thinking of heading to the Eastern Shore over the weekend to contact us for more info., but the gist is this: we'll be starting at 6:00 PM, and are planning on long tables with communal seating, with family style service. The price is $70/person and includes all food, but not beverages. In addition to platters of Roasted Blue Crabs, there will be Skillet Fried Chicken, Ham Biscuits, Hush Puppies, and other appropriate fare for a crab boil. We'll have some specialty cocktails as well as beer and wine specials. The idea started as we were looking to launch summertime in the Mid-Atlantic. While I love the "get out of town" experience of going to Kent Narrows and digging into a bunch of crabs, the drive back is always a drag. We are planning on bringing you an Eastern Shore in our backyard-sort of experience. So if you want to share a fun and casual Sunday Evening on the Lawn with us, please contact Celia Laurent to reserve. Claurent@mohg.com or (202)787-6068. Looking forward to seeing some of you there, Eric Ziebold

Sunday, February 28, 2010 (the last day of Black History Month) 1:00 PM – 2:30 PM Chefs Rachael Harriman and Johnnie Thomas will lead the group in a discussion on African-American traditions and how they have influenced the cuisine at Sou’Wester Chefs wil demonstrate and discuss the following items, while serving tasting portions: • Roulade of Pig’s Feet with Picked Watermelon • Fried Beef Steak • The Importance of Braised Greens: Braised Escarole and Salt Pork • The Importance of Dried Legumes and Grains: Hoppin’ John Class participants will also enjoy snacking on some Sou’Wester favorites, including Hush Puppies and mini Red velvet cupcakes. 100% of the proceeds of the class are donated to CCAP Careers through Culinary Arts Program (http://www.ccapinc.org/). Careers through Culinary Arts Program’s mission is to promote and provide career opportunities in the foodservice industry for underserved youth through culinary arts education and employment. Price: $30 per person plus tax Space is limited. Please call 202-787-6033 to reserve.

White Veal

Alas, taste is of course subjective, as of course appreciation of a certain style would be as well. Everyone will have their personal favorite restaurants, and someone else will have a disappointing meal at said favorite restaurant. I could run down the list of disappointing meals I've had in Europe, and list all of the great meals I've had at restaurants in Europe and the US, but I don't think thats really very interesting because alas its just my opinion/experience. I guess what I was driving at earlier was that I don't think you can make a blanket statement that the 3*'s of Europe have a different standard than the 3*'s elsewhere in the world. The world is changing, the internet is becoming more influential. Does Michelin have to change with the times, do they need to change with the times, have they changed with the times. Is there a different expectation eating at a Michelin 3* restaurant in the 90's as opposed to today?

I haven't been to Robuchon in Vega$, so I can't really comment on that. I have been to Michelin three stars in Europe and the US. I don't feel its as much of a difference between European Michelin 3* and the 3* from other countries judging all in 2009. I think there is more to say about Michelin 3* in the 90's and the Michelin 3* of today.

Interesting article, and personally I like Phoebe's writing style. She seems to be in favor of restaurants going to a service charge. Considering her first book was title "Service Included" I can't help but wonder where she stood on the issue when Per Se went to being a service inclusive restaurant. In the article it sounds like chefs don't appreciate the service team. I remember overhearing a conversation once (no make that twice) at two different restaurants) that went something like this: Chef "so are there anymore questions on the philosophy of why we're going to a service charge?" Service Team "this doesn't work, I'm not going to upsell if I'm not incentived." Chef "I don't want you to be a used car salesman, I want you to be a service professional" Service Team "yes, but going to a service charge you're taking away our incentive to upsell, and if you take away my incentive to upsell, the restaurant is going to lose a lot of money." Chef "I don't want you to be worried about upselling, I want you to give our guests the best service you can. Your salary is going to be based on your current earnings, so you wont take a pay cut all you need to worry about is giving each guest the type of experience they're looking for." Which side of the debate was Phoebe on when she was at Per Se? What was the reaction of servers in New York when it was announced that Per Se was going to a service charge? Would it really be an issue with guests feeling like tipping was taken out of their hands, or would it be a problem with the service team? The disappointing part of the article in my opinion in that with all of the rhetoric written into the article she never once credited Thomas Keller.

Contrary to what some people may want to try and argue, even small ethnic restaurants in the suburbs sometimes have inconsistencies. So to add my experience to the mix of how the cooking is lately.... Honey Crisp Duck was spot on. Red Curry Duck was even better and probably the best example of the 30 times I've ordered it Tom Yum Kai was good Tom Kha Kai was fantastic Braised Pig Kuckle was either really good or really so-so, pending whether or not you got one of the fatty bites, which for me there weren't enough of. From my experience last week I would say they're currently on.

I am currently looking for Dining Room Management, Sous Chefs and a pastry chef for a new restaurant concept that I will be launching soon in the Mandarin Oriental. Reworking the current Cafe Mozu space(Next door to CityZen) the restaurant is meant to capture the spirit of "southern hospitality" in Southwest DC. From a food standpoint, think American comfort food inspired by the region. Additionally we may be looking for a Captain in CityZen. Please send all inquiries or resumes to me at EZiebold@mohg.com. Eric Ziebold

I would like to take Don's post as an opportunity to express that an enormous amount of thought has gone into the concept and philosophy of the restaurant. If there are some things that make you wonder or roll your eyes, I would merely ask that you give us a chance to develop our identity and the culture of our restaurant before forming an opinion. Let the restaurant become what it is planned to be and I think you'll like what you find. We hope to have a place that becomes an important part of Washington DC, and what it means to be a part of the community here, IN WASHINGTON.

Rachael: Can you let me know when you get the buttery, salty popcorn tree? I'm selling my house so I can be your neighbor! I went to the movies in Fairfield CA with this girl once. It was one of those butter your own popcorn places. (I'm not sure what the movie theaters were thinking!!) So she orders a popcorn and a drink tray. I'm a little confused as she has no drink but whatever. I order my popcorn, a coke , and we move over to the butter station to drain all the imitation, butter flavored, fatty substance they give you to put on your popcorn. It was at that moment I witnessed genius. She dumps the popcorn into said drink tray, creating more surface area, and then begins dousing the popcorn with the imitation, butter flavored, fatty substance, then pours it back in the bag. As she finished, I had tears in my eyes as I looked at my bag of popcorn with its 3" of exposed popcorn and meekly asked "Rachael, can I borrow your drink tray?" For the record everytime I go to the movies and ask for a drink tray I announce to everyone "its the Rachael Harriman technique" Just so you know, I'll bring the DVD's when the tree starts to bear fruit, errr....popcorn. EZ

I couldn't help but notice a lot of postings have been about the fact that Rachael is a woman in what was historically a "man's world." I think most professionals would agree that for everybody its an extremely hard profession to get into and stay in. I think Rachael really summed up the attitude that all young cooks should take making their way up through the business, and I think its that which has most influenced the path she has travelled. "I think I was too busy trying to learn everything I could to notice." I can remember the conversation like it was yesterday. Rachael was commis at TFL and I was the Chef de Cuisine. She was to finish her externship and pulled me aside to ask what I thought would be her next opportunity if she were to continue in our kitchen. I knew what she wanted to hear, but that wasn't in the picture at the time, so I told her what I thought would be the reality for her. A couple weeks went by Rachael put in her notice and ultimately moved to France. Was I disappointed, yep. Was I sad for us, yep. Was I happy for her, yep. She was looking for the next challenge to continue learning, and we couldn't offer her enough at the time. Sometimes thats the case. I don't regret my decision, and would make the same one today that I did then, and I'm sure she would make the same decision as well. Its not about regrets, its about moving your life forward, always striving to continue to learn, and not getting distracted by what goes on around you. I have to repeat it again, because I think its one of the great traits about Rachael that has carried her down an amazing road and its what I wish most cooks had more of. "I think I was too busy trying to learn everything I could to notice" EZ

One of our best dishwashers is becoming available next week - not because we don't need him (we do), but because his 2008 hours are being cut back by the hotel. He's a great dishwasher, a hard worker, and comes with my highest recommendation. Please email me personally for his contact information - and don't hire him permanently unless you really need him, because we hope to get him back after the beginning of the year. That having been said, finding him immediate employment is my highest priority, even if it means losing him. Thanks, Eric Ziebold Chef, CityZen eziebold@mohg.com

Actually the event was downstairs in the gallery. It was an AIWF event, I'm not sure how exactly they promoted it.

I would have to agree with you about Eleven Madison Park. I had an inspirational meal there less than 4 months ago.

Ballreichs

anybody that's seen don's signature I'm sure will vouch for the chaos that it can cause.

It really works quite well with Foie Gras, although I tend to do it at a higher temp for foie, and it's more of poaching it than the standard idea of sous vide. Don't be surprised by the amount of fat that it renders (which is a fair amount) And keep this in mind, my favorite part of cooking foie sous vide is that you can put something in the bag w/ the foie and not only will it perfume the foie, but the fat as well, so if you include some bay leaf, thyme, mint, vanilla etc.... not only will you have some great foie but also some great tasting foie fat to use in as a sauce or in a vinaigrette. As far as not overcooking it goes at 160 degrees I would think something like 40 min. (for a whole lobe) Good luck. And let me know when you have it perfected, I'll bring the wine.

It's about time(as I wish the ban would have been lifted before I had 10 kg confiscated at Dulles) What I look forward to seeing more than what restaurants will do with it is what will happen with the very saturated market of "kobe style" beef, and the pricing of beef in general. The real thing is incredible, can't wait to get some